Tim ATKIN, Burgundy 2018

CLOS DE TART GRAND CRU MONOPOLE
96

Jacques Devauges may have jumped the wall and moved to the Clos des Lambrays next door, but the wine he made at this historic property is still current. And what a wine it is: combining seven different parcels of the Grand Cru to make a fine, floral, complex, subtly reductive wine of considerable distinction and savoury grip, framed by 80% new wood. Let's hope the new team carries on the great work, which amounted to a radical change of style.